25 mayo, 2024

 

THE PROCESS:

 

To make a typical porteño pizza pizza is started by using a kilo of triple zero flour and 30 grams of yeast. Mix both by hand and then just add 30 grams of salt, 600 grams of water and oil. Bake for 10 to 20 minutes and let the bread roll for half an hour in a wooden drawer. Then, a loosened mold is accepted and, on top, the mass is placed. There it will rest between 3 and 4 hours.

 

In contrast, the process of Neapolitan pizza starts upside down: by water. A liter, to be more precise. The yeast goes into the water, from 3 to 5 grams, depending on the ambient temperature. And with a single hand, the flour is added. In fact, to obtain traditional dough, here we need to use 3 types of flours: one of high gluten content, one of strength and another protein, which are added in that order with a movement that imitates a mechanical clamp. So, until you reach the «pasta point», about 20 minutes later. Let rest for half an hour, make the buns, and then, you should rest in a drawer of cherry wood for at least 8 hours to contribute to your best digestion. The result is an elastic mixture, which is touched and returned alone.

 

THE INGREDIENTS THAT GO ON THE DOUGH:

These are two stories that have branched out. Argentines cook the expert tomato with garlic and oregano. The Italians, however, put the tomato type San Marzano, raw. This has a special acidity, as it comes from volcanic soils. There is also divergence with the mozzarella. For the porteño pizza one uses that comes in bar and is dry. It takes about 250 grams. Instead, to make a true Neapolitan preparation, you have to use the mozzarella that comes in its serum (only 100 grams). And a dash of olive oil to finish. We never add oregano and much less olives, a tradition that is very difficult to know where it came from. It is also necessary to emphasize that before placing the ingredients on the pizza it is necessary to make a flapping movement to achieve the traditional Neapolitan form. The crown is made first by manipulating with the fingers from the center towards the edges. That way, we get an edge with air

 

COOKING:

For porteño pizza, we need quebracho wood (red or white), which is very hard and reaches a temperature of 300 degrees. This will cook in its mold for about 10 minutes, away from the fire.

On the other hand, for the Neapolitan, we need oak or beech (or eucalyptus, if there is no other) wood that achieves an effusive flame and elevates the oven temperature to 485 degrees. We need a high heat because our pizza will be only 60 seconds exposed to heat, although not in a bowl, but on a shovel. Towards the end of the process, the pizza maker will pass the dough over the fire, raising the blade to the ceiling of the oven. This makes it swell, which we technically call the alveolus. The pizzeria must be handled very efficiently and quickly to make everything perfect.

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